No need, 7 passes is enough. I believe memtest does test CPU Cache (level 1 and level 2), as well as motherboard cache (level 3), but not the motherboard and CPU itself. There are software tools out there, but unfortunately, the best tools come with a price tag. Even the best tools cannot test for everything because the motherboard is too complex and vary between manufacturers.

At least we can rule out faulty memory as the most likely cause. I know I've personally had some bad experiences with OCZ over the last few years, and memory is usually the most common hardware cause of stop errors. This would leave, CPU or moterboard, most likely north bridge controller or frontside bus (FSB) of the board.

Let's first double check compatibility, configuration, voltages etc using CPU-Z log. After it has been downloaded, click on the About tab, followed by Save Report (TXT). This will produce a readable log file which you'll be able to upload here

Is this problem just started recently, or have you had this problem since the PC was built?

since I built it but it used to just be once in a while like maybe 1 time a week or even a month, but when I had the 8800gt in i would also get display driver has stopped working and recovered when gaming sometimes that is why I thought it was the gpu. But the bsod have said different things like (IRQ not less or equal than, page file in unpaged area, win32.sys, nvlddmkm.sys, and I think it was pfc list or something like that) the win32 happened 1 time along with the pfc list, most of the time it was the IRQ or the page file error. But if the cpu test cost some I don't mind can't cost as much as buying a cpu if the one I have is fine and winds up being the mobo. I hope it is the mobo gives me a good reason to get an intel chipset to run crossfire can't beat ati now for price vs performance.

My best advice (unless money is no object), is just to have a second pair of eyes on the hardware configuration of the PC, especially if the PC is custom built. It is quite easy to overlook or not take certain things into account when building a PC. Once you post me a CPU-Z log, I'll double check settings, voltages and temperatures of the PC. Certain settings can also be altered using 3rd party Windows tools as well, so it's good to rule this one out. I'll also check for compatibility and check to make sure there is no BIOS updates for this specific problem, even though it's unlikely to be a BIOS issue.

In the meantime, check the motherboard itself for any visible signs of failure, such as capacitor leakage, or capacitors which appear fat or bloated. Also make sure the north bridge fan just below the CPU is working properly.

If your going to spend cash to track down the problem, then your better off taking the PC to your local computer repair shop. There they will have the facilities to test the PC properly, not to mention spare parts. You could rule out CPU problems very quickly by swapping it with a spare CPU they'll no doubt already have in stock. Many won't even charge for diagnosing the problem, but will do for any replacement parts and time it takes to swap and test.

Otherwise, one software based tool you could use is this one: 7Byte : Hot CPU Tester Pro There are some testing area's that come with the demo, but the full version obviously tests everything.

here is the file. problem is there is no place like that where i live at small town all my stuff is orderd.

Jeeepers! just a few things to work through here.

CPU temperatures, settings (multiplier, FSB, voltages etc) are perfect. GPU temperatures are also perfect, even though this was something that was ruled out much earlier in the thread.

Memory is part of the motherboard's Qualified Vendors List (QVL). This is something a lot of system builders fail to check when building a PC so this is good.

Now to the issues...

Voltage
12v voltage rail is showing 7.3v. This is impossible, I'm sure your PC wouldn't even start at this voltage, which has to be a misread by CPU-Z. The PSU you have (860w Turbocool) is certainly more than ample for this board.

Memory < yep, we haven't ruled everything out just yet!
OCZ Part #OCZ2N10661G is supposed to be PC2-8500's as far as I can tell (https://www.providentpc.com/ramocz-p...1g-p-2847.html), yet they are reading as PC2-5300's. Double check BIOS settings, but this may be a BIOS fix, however EVGA are only showing the update information on their latest update (http://www.evga.com/support/drivers/...t.asp?switch=2) which included CPU Support.

Also, since your running EEP, make sure that your running at 2.1v, instead of the default 1.8v. EPP requires a little extra power, but make sure you don't exceed 2.1v.

North Bridge < Very important
Temperatures are showing 117°c.

As I mentioned earlier, make sure the fan on the north bridge is connected and working properly. Make sure the heatsink below it is clear of dust. It's quite a noisy fan, so what some people are doing is setting the fan speed to manual in BIOS (under PC Health Status > Dynamic Fan Control), and turning it down to 40% or less. Turn it up to 100% and test.

Some have actually started to fit their own fans here to reduce noise and keep the temperatures down.

Ok I went into the bios and confirmed the settings everything is like I set it when I built the comp. As for the Northbridge temp at 117C, I think that might be a misread by cpuz, I am assuming that the northbridge is that part right below the cpu this mobo came with a small fan for it and it stays at 100%, but I removed the side of the case and touched my finger to the side of it and the fins on the bottom there is noway that thing was 117C, it felt cooler than the graphics card which was at 50C. My ram is PC2 8500 might be another misread by cpuz. What is EEP? But when I built the comp I had to manually set the timing and voltages for the ram or else the mobo would set it back to default which was 533mhz FSB and 1.8v. But I do need to flash the bios they have a newer version out and I had to go and get a program from ntfs.com for an iso burner cause nero wouldn't make the cd bootable will probally flash bios today.

EPP stands for Enhanced Performance Profile which allows you to use higher levels of performance. 533mhz is actually correct, because your running dual channel SLI memory. Two sticks make up 1066 mhz. Not sure if this makes sense, but try running default for while?